Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) – bleacher, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory

 Hamamelis (Witch hazel) – proanthacyanidins, sooth, moisturize,tone, good for acne. Anti-viral, bacterial and fungal

 Tricholoma Metsutake extract (pine mushroom) – moisturizer, bleacher, lightener

 Hydroquinone – a phenolic compound (1,4 dihydroxybenzone), Inhibits oxidation of tyrosine, inhibits RNA and DNA synthesis in the melanocyte.

 Kojic acid – a hydrophilic fungal derivative. Inhibits tyrosinase. Best to be used at 2% with 10% glycolic acid and 2% HQ.

Fade Serum is highly effective for treatment of age spots and pigmentation irregularities and should be used with New Youth Retinol Silk for best results.

A skin care program that really works is the best secrete. The products must do many things, including repair of the cells that produce the skin, increase collagen production, reverse the effects of glycation, and much more.  Glycation is the accumulation of sticky debris on our small molecules, such as elastin and collagen. Anti-glycation is extremely important to thwart the effects of aging and is reduction of inflammation. These, plus good nutrition absorbed through the skin are paramount. New Youth has several proprietary formulas addressing the glycation and inflammation problems. It’s really not a secret, just common sense. Good skin care can make the skin look decades younger

I then began to explain the purpose of the vitamin A analogs, like Retinol, Retin A, and retinyl palmitate. The benefits of these products are: increased collagen production, thicker epidermis and dermis, increased blood supply, and some lightening of pigmentation spots. The redness, inflammation, irritation and flaking are undesirable side effects.

We avoided these side effects with the New Youth Retinol Silk by microencapsulated the molecules which allows it to penetrate into the deeper dermis and also makes it timed-release. Retinol Silk, therefore, affects all of the dermis all day long with the above-mentioned benefits, and since it is diluted into deeper tissues and lasts longer, there is much less risk of the inflammatory side effects. Inflammation can generally be considered bad, contributing to everything from pimples to skin cancer.

The New Youth system works with anti-inflammatory ingredients, with nutrients that rejuvenate the cells that produce the skin, and with anti-glycation ingredients. This is why the skin texture and condition improves early, but it continues to regenerate the skin the longer you use it. And, unlike Retin A, which is only one nutrient, you can go into the sun while using New Youth Cosmeceuticals. New Youth has too may nutrients to count, such as those that protect and repair DNA, the cell membrane, the mitochondria. It also contains whole food nutrients, and much more. When using the basic New Youth kit, occasionally one will see some inflammation initially, and in these situations, the instructions can be altered until the skin becomes healthy and more resistant. These instructions accompany the kit. In addition, you can always contact our office and ask for Anna or Virginia for detailed instructions. After all, the products are effective because they are strong, and skin comes with an unlimited range of damage and different degrees of sensitivities.

The bottom line is that irritation, redness and flaking are not necessary to restore the skin to youthful health and reduce the signs of aging.

Understanding and Treating Your Skin better, One Layer at a Time

As a skin care professional, we make every effort to look at the skin critically and assess details about what is happening on several levels. 

The different layers are:

1. Epidermis – the outer layer, the one we see, and the outer most epidermal layer is called the stratum corneum

1. Basal layer – the thin layer that separates the epidermis and the dermis. It is this layer that we find the melanocytes that give us our tan color by producing the pigment melanin.

1. Dermis – the deepest and thickest layer. This is where we find fibrocytes that create collagen and elastin as well as the adipocytes that produce the subcutaneous fatty layer. In between the cells is the substance called glycosomineglycans (GAG) that fills in the space and acts like a scaffold holding it all together. The collagen provides volume and strength and the elastin gives our skin elasticity. The deterioration of any of these elements advances the appearance of aging. 

What happens to my skin when it ages?

One of the most visible signs of premature aging is a thinning of both epidermis and dermis. This occurs when free radicals attack our skin during excess sun exposure. Free radicals damage all layers of the skin. The fibroblast cease to produce enough collagen and elastin and the GAG deteriorates. The skin dries without sufficient production of moisture, pigmentation becomes abnormal because of melanocyte damage, and we lose blood supply to the skin.

With less blood supply, the nutrients cannot get to the various cells, and the waste products are not eliminated sufficiently. Ultimately, mutations can occur and from then we get an increase in the incidence of cancer.

What can we do about it?

You’ve heard it before, but bears reminding:

1. Don’t get too much sun,
2. Don’t smoke cigarettes
3. Don’t use harsh chemicals on the skin.
4. Eat a healthful diet with a variety of vegetables. Limit the simple carbohydrates that produce AGEs (advanced glycation end products). A bad diet full of simple carbohydrates results in glycation , or molecular by-products, that “gum up” the works. This byproduct attaches to elastin, enzymes, immunoglobulins and causes sagging and ineffective metabolism. The result: it puts aging into overdrive..

Do use a good skin care program and sun block to protect yourself!

A good skincare program can offer the following:

- Moisturization – without occlusive oiliness

- Nutrients – some of which should be from whole foods, such as marine algae

- Vitamin A analog — such as retinol or retinyl palmitate, which increases collagen and elastin production and increases blood supply to the skin

- Anti-glycation ingredients – one of which is carnosine

- Anti-inflammatories – green tea is an example

- DNA repair – such as seen with Cat’s Claw (uncaria tomantosa)

- Resveratrol to help turn on youth genes

- Peptides – two of which are the most commonly seen are Matrixyl Synthe 6 (the latest of the Matrixyls) and Argireline. The former signals the fibroblasts to increase collagen production while decreasing collagen breakdown, and the latter relaxes the muscles just below the skin to reduce wrinkles. The effects of both of these peptides take a month or so to see the benefits.

With the New Youth System of Cosmeceuticals, we combine all of these necessary ingredients and delivery systems into a 7-product system or regimen, which is our basic starter kit. It’s a holistic approach to good skin, and we make it easy. Generally the pubic, and the patients I see everyday, don’t know which nutrients your skin needs. An example would be a person that wants to reduce pigmentation spots, so they would use the Fade Serum. This would help some, but the improvement would be many times better and faster with using the New Youth Basic Kit because the products are synergistic with each other. In addition, their skin would look much younger, tighter and with fewer wrinkles than simply reducing age spots.

It’s quite obvious when someone has been fastidious about skin care, and when someone hasn’t.

Consider a dramatic study conducted in which researchers recruited nearly 200 sets of identical twins who were attending the annual twin festival in Twinsburg, Ohio. Since twins are “genetically programmed’’ to age the same way it confirmed the strongest factors that contribute to aging are what I see in my office everyday: smoking, sun damage and stress.

“Based on the assessment, 10 years of smoking added about 2.5 additional years of aging to a twin’s face, compared to a twin who didn’t smoke. Sun exposure, particularly among those who spent a lot of time outside playing golf or tennis, also increased the appearance of aging.”[1]

Click on this link, scroll through a few photographs, and I think the difference will astound you. 

http://media2.myfoxphilly.com/slideshows/identicaltwins/1/med/bmi_and_weight.htm

[1] Dr. Bahman Guyuron of University Hospitals at Case Medical Center in Cleveland

By: Wendy Schmid

Cutting-edge skin care lines from dermatologists and plastic surgeons are now an industry staple, delivering office-worthy results right in your own home. Here’s a roundup of the best in the business.

Read the full article…

A recent example was a patient of mine who was discussing the New Youth treatment system. She had used New Youth for over ten years, purchased the entire treatment system and yet was not using the Activator! The treatment products work best when used together, as they were designed synergistically.

The Activator softens the keratin layer to allow the ingredients in the products to be absorbed better, which makes them more effective. It also has mild bleachers, anti-inflammatories and anti-glycation ingredients. While each of the products has its individual value, when used together as a system, the benefits are magnified, like 2+2 equaling five.

I have had patients over the years say they use New Youth, but aren’t loyal to the line. When further inquiry is made, I find the patient may be using only the Cleanser, or maybe the Cleanser plus the night cream (Anti-Inflammatory Cream) or some other individual product. While they are benefiting, they are not coming even close to the results they could achieve if the entire System were used. That’s why we call it a treatment System. The ingredients, many of which are natural, are so numerous they are incompatible and couldn’t be put in a single product. Actually, they can be put in the same product, but the shelf life would be very short and many ingredients would be ineffective or less effective as a result.

It’s easy to spot a patient who isn’t using the system correctly; it’s obvious by a patient’s age spots, a sallow color, fine wrinkles, sun damage, and differences in skin color, large pores, and more. New Youth will make improvement in virtually everyone’s skin but occasionally tweaks to the regimen may need to take place due to a patient’s sensitivity or particularly resistant skin.

There are seven products in the basic New Youth kit; the first three steps are the same morning and night:

1. Cleanser – wash face with this to remove make-up and clean your face. Our medical aesthetician recommends washing twice in the evening to remove make-up

2. Activator – use on a cotton pad and put on face lightly or scrub your face with this, according to your skin sensitivity.

3. Fade – place a few drops on your face to reduce pigmentation spots.

 For the AM regimen add the following:

4. Age Control Serum – Apply a few drops to face after the Fade.

5. Moisturizer SPF 30 – This contains micronized zinc for UVA and UVB protection, thus the consistency is thicker than as standard moisturizer. Plus it contains anti-inflammatories for protections. Remember that a little goes a long way. If you get a white tint to your skin, you are using too much.

 PM regimen – add the following to the first three steps:

6. Anti-inflammatory Cream – filled with anti-aging ingredients

7. Retinol Silk – usually one capsule will cover the face and neck.

Once you get accustomed to the regimen, after washing the face it takes no more than a couple of extra minutes, and your benefits will be dramatic with few exceptions. Those exceptions may need to alter the products such as: reduce the Retinol to every other day initially if you are too sensitive; add Hydrating Serum if too dry; or add Personal Peel or the Microderm Scrub if you need a more vigorous treatment for those with severe sun damage or in smokers.

E. Ronald Finger, MD, FACS

Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeon

Savannah, GA